Free Advice › Men's Grooming
Should I shave with or against the grain?

We always advise to shave 'with the grain' but should this be the same for everyone?

I recently got an email from a friend and loyal blog-follower. In following my weekly shaving tips, he noticed that I have been neglecting men who have fine, thin beards. He wrote to me that, despite his best attempts to avoid irritation, he just can’t shave with the grain because the hairs just don’t get cut.

Some people have ultra-straight hair on their head and on their beards. Some people, despite their best attempts, just can’t grow a full beard (or at least something that most of us would consider to be a real one!).

So, here are suggestions for my fine-bearded buddies, for whom I am going to break all my rules.

1. It is OK to shave against the grain … if you’re careful. Very straight hair is less likely than curly hair to grow out of the hair follicle in a way that causes ingrown hair, or shaving bumps. Shaving against the grain works best after you've shave once with the grain. When you shave against the grain you cut the hair very close to the skin, which may be OK when shaving fine, straight hair but it really dependes on the hair.
2. While you may be dismayed by your sparse facial hair, there’s good news: You probably won’t need to shave as frequently as your werewolf friends. For some, this may mean once a week -- for others, every few days. It all depends on you.
3. Follow the same shaving process regardless of how much or how little hair you have. You should wash, apply shaving cream, take light, short strokes, and then moisturize.

Again, my apologies go out to my fair-haired friends. For every rule there is an exception, and that’s you!

How should I shave around the adams apple?

First off, the skin on the neck is thinner than the skin on your face, so it may be more prone to irritation. When you shave, use light strokes so you don't put too much pressure on your neck. It’s also a good idea to wash your neck with warm water before shaving. The water not only removes dirt, but also softens up the bristles so they can be cut easily by the razor. Once you finish shaving, don't forget to moisturize: It’ll replenish your skin’s natural fats and water levels after they’ve been diminished by the washing and shaving processes.

Unlike the hair on your face, the hair on your neck tends to grow in several different directions. This can pose a challenge to shavers, and it can lead to irritation and ingrown hairs. Do your best to shave in the direction of hair growth. For me, this means starting at the jawline and shaving downward. If you see a swirl of hair growing in different directions somewhere on your neck, do you your best. Shave lightly when you get to those areas and be very careful: Shaving against the grain may give you a closer shave, but it can also lead to more irritation later.

Lastly, what should you do when you find ingrown hairs in your beard? If you can, gently lift the hair from the skin's surface using a clean needle. Make sure, of course, that your skin is clean as well! Plucking the hair out may lead to more problems, so don’t remove the hair completely. Once the edge of the hair has been cleared from the skin, you can go ahead and shave as usual.

If you follow these tips, hopefully the only wattle you’ll be worrying about this Thanksgiving will be that of your turkey!